One morning this past winter, a friend"s 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier cranked but failed to start. The starter seemed to be running free, together if under no load. Remove of the valve cover revealed a very loosened timing chain. This article will sheathe removal that the valve cover and also a prior engine tear down. Climate the chain and associated contents will be removed and inspected. Exactly cam, piston and also crank timing will certainly be re-established. A new kit of timing components will be installed. Climate we will certainly re-assemble and also test the work. Over there is always the possibility, on one interference engine prefer this, the valve damage may have actually occurred. A leak under test is best here, yet we walk not have the equipment. We additionally felt confident the the chain coming loosened on start-up do valve damage unlikely, as opposed come under load. This is a an overwhelming repair (we got a $1200 estimate) but we completed it successfully and I wish you great results if you tackle this job. The project at a glanceTools: Floor or scissors jack, supports, 10,13 15,18 and also 21 sockets, every sizes of ratchets, socket expansion bars,universal socket adapter, 10mm allen wrench modified come 3cm, huge straight tongue screwdriver, pry bar for locking the crank pulley, speak wrench, (inch and also ft lb) 10" long 10mm and 15mm box end wrenches, 18mm and 24mm wrenches, breaker bar(s) Materials: Lacquer thinner, motor oil, oil record panParts: time chain kit (Cloyes 9-4201S), timing cover gasket (Fel-Pro TCS46041), crank wheel bolt, valve cover gasket set (Fel-Pro VS50596R), if needed. Cost of parts: time kit $129.53, timing cover gasket $23.86, crank bolt $7, valve covering gasket, if needed, $25.27Time: 15-20 hours
1) Disconnect the battery. Security first.2) eliminate two 10mm nuts an installed on studs in the driver"s side of the valve cover. These secure the metal fuel lines.

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Remove these 2 10mm nuts first
3) Loosen however don"t eliminate the studs. There are two 13mm nuts welded onto these studs. Currently there will be room to relocate the throttle cable parentheses to permit clearance for the coil fill to it is in removed.4) Unplug the wiring connector come the coil pack assembly.5) eliminate the 4 10mm coil pack mounting bolts.6) Wiggle and also lift out the coil pack. The accelerator cable bracket have to be loosened enough to acquire past now.7) eliminate the throttle cables indigenous the bracket. The bracket will come along with the valve cover.8) It will certainly be beneficial to eliminate two 10mm nutted studs securing the fuel rails in ~ the radiator side of the engine. This provides an ext wiggle room come disengage the fuel lines indigenous the brackets.9) Unclamp and remove the rubber water tap going to the wait intake above the accelerator body. Be mindful here as I damaged it turn off of the air intake box. I would recommend remove the wait intake.10) Loosen and also then remove all 14 the the 10 mm bolts stop the valve cover. Over there are four in the middle now visible v the coil load removed.
There space four more under the "Ecotec" labeling coil cover
11) Tap on the cover with a rubber mallet. Usage a little prybar in ~ reinforced points on the cover to gently...and I typical gently, work the sheathe loose. Tenderness repetition pays off. Hear for that tiny "pop."
Take treatment to gently pry in ~ a ar with some "meat" top top it
12) traction the cover up and now remove the 13mm stud ~ above the firewall side. There is a ground lug behind that that must come off. The former (radiator side) stud have the right to stay on with the throttle bracket.
The 13mm stud (on the left) should be removed, the other only loosened.
13) Lift and also pull the valve cover off the engine, relocating it toward the passenger side. Currently the chain have the right to be inspected. This one was exceptionally loose.
That"s means too loose to work-related (guide gotten rid of for clarity).

2)Break the lug nuts on the right front wheel and jack it up, remove the wheel and set it down on a block of timber or a stand.
3) eliminate the wheel fine splash guard. This is complicated piece held in by 6-8 8mm hex head screws, and two panel fasteners. There are additionally several wires attached to the item that have to be eliminated from holders. Store track of all fasteners and also the positions of wires come ensure efficient and complete re-assembly.
4) eliminate the serpentine belt through inserting a 3/8" ratchet directly into the square hole (from below) and and rotating upward. Organize it there while slipping the belt off.

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5) remove the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) bolt. Jam a pry bar between one of the three cross arms of the balancer and also the top of the steering knuckle and lock it in place. Location a 21mm socket ~ above the bolt and also use the best breaker bar girlfriend can obtain to rest the bolt. I provided a 24" bar. There is many of turning radius to break this very torqued bolt. It turns off in the traditional counter-clockwise direction.